The Toronto issue, November 2026
Toronto
Toronto does not reveal itself through postcard monuments.
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The Toronto reading list
All 13 Toronto stories
Tours and ticketsThe lead story
Inside Toronto's Royal Ontario Museum in October 2026
Timed slots, the Weston door while Bloor Street is shut, and where to walk, which museums to add and where to eat in Yorkville around the ROM in October 2026.
Robin Keller
Tours and tickets
A Hungry Morning Inside Toronto's St. Lawrence Market
Two market halls, 120-plus vendors and one famous pork sandwich. What to eat, when to arrive, and the closure that wastes more trips than anything else in Old Town.
Eleni Vasilakis
Tours and tickets
Standing Above Toronto at the CN Tower Without the Queue
What the ride up gets you, which ticket tier is worth paying for, and how to spend the hour before and after your timed slot.
Robin Keller
Tours and tickets
Toronto's Financial District Towers and Tunnels in October
A free, eight-block architecture walk through Bay Street's bank towers, the banking halls you can sometimes get into, and the PATH tunnels that make it work in October rain.
Robin Keller
Toronto for the Holidays: Christmas Markets and Winter Things to Do
Dates for the markets, prices for the light trails, and the rinks you can skate for free, including the cabins in the Distillery District and a figure-eight under the Gardiner Expressway.
Eleni Vasilakis
More from the Toronto issue
No Car Required: The Hidden City Under Toronto's Streets
Robin Keller
Into the Ravines: Toronto's Wild Country Below Street Level
Robin Keller
Tours and tickets
Walking King West Through Toronto's Entertainment District
Robin Keller
The Scarborough Bluffs: Toronto's White Cliffs and the Beach the City Keeps to Itself
Robin Keller
The Aga Khan Museum: Toronto's Quietest Masterpiece and the Islamic Art That Found a Home Here
Robin Keller
Island Time: Toronto's Ferry Ride to Another Country
Robin Keller
How the Raptors Rewired a Night Out in Toronto
Bruno Tavares
The Creeks Still Running Under Toronto's Pavement
Robin Keller
An insider’s read on Toronto
Once known as 'Toronto the Good'—a conservative, Victorian outpost dominated by orange-order sobriety—the city underwent a radical transformation in the latter half of the twentieth century. Post-war immigration from Europe, the Caribbean, and East Asia, combined with a massive shift of financial power from Montreal in the 1970s, turned a provincial capital into a global economic powerhouse. Today, the local character is marked by a distinct civic pride, a passion for neighborhood preservation, and an understated, work-hard-play-hard mentality.
It is a city of architectural collisions, where Victorian red-brick bay-and-gables stand in the shadows of soaring blue-glass condominiums.
From our Toronto guide
Nine neighbourhoods, nine ways to stay
Pick the neighbourhood first and the trip follows. Each one opens its own guide, with the hotels inside it.
Kensington Market
Creatives, vintage hunters, and adventurous eaters. The trade-off is that the area is gritty, crowded, and can feel chaotic on weekends.
A bohemian, sensory-heavy enclave of narrow streets lined with Victorian homes converted into vintage clothing shops, cheese boutiques, and global food stalls.
Where to stay Mainly independent apartment rentals; there are no major hotels within the market itself.
Stay in Kensington Market
West Queen West
Style-conscious travelers and gallery hoppers. The trade-off is high commercial rents have driven out some independent shops, replacing them with corporate brands.
The epicenter of the city's indie fashion, art gallery, and nightlife scenes, anchored by historic brick buildings and a massive public park.
Where to stay Boutique art hotels like The Drake or Gladstone House.
Stay in West Queen West
The Distillery District
History buffs and architecture admirers. The trade-off is that it can feel overly curated and highly touristy, especially during the winter market.
A pedestrian-only village containing the largest collection of Victorian-era industrial architecture in North America, beautifully restored into shops and restaurants.
Where to stay Stay nearby in the St. Lawrence or Old Town neighborhoods.
Stay in The Distillery District
Yorkville
Luxury shoppers and celebrity spotters. The trade-off is that it lacks the grit, warmth, and artistic energy found further west.
A polished, high-end district of designer boutiques, luxury hotels, and fine dining establishments housed in Victorian row houses and modern towers.
Where to stay Ultra-luxury options like the Four Seasons or Park Hyatt.
Stay in Yorkville
The Annex
Academics, book lovers, and budget-conscious travelers. The trade-off is that some streets can be noisy with student housing.
A leafy, historic neighborhood dominated by massive Edwardian homes, independent bookstores, and a large student population from the adjacent university.
Where to stay Charming bed-and-breakfasts or neighborhood boutique hotels.
Stay in The Annex
Chinatown
Bargain hunters and lovers of authentic East Asian cuisine. The trade-off is crowded sidewalks and a generally unpolished streetscape.
A dense, energetic strip along Spadina Avenue packed with open-air produce markets, herbalists, and multi-generational noodle shops.
Where to stay Stay in neighboring Queen West or Baldwin Village.
Stay in Chinatown
Leslieville
Slow-paced travelers, families, and design enthusiasts. The trade-off is that it is far from the subway line and quiet after dark.
A former light-industrial hub turned relaxed, family-friendly neighborhood known for its brunch spots, vintage furniture stores, and coffee shops.
Where to stay The Broadview Hotel at the neighborhood's western edge.
Stay in Leslieville
The Beaches
Families and nature lovers looking to escape the concrete. The trade-off is a lengthy streetcar commute to the downtown core.
A lakeside neighborhood with a distinct small-town, resort-like feel, featuring a wooden boardwalk, sandy beaches, and quiet residential streets.
Where to stay Local residential rentals and guesthouses.
Stay in The Beaches
Financial District
Business travelers and architecture enthusiasts. The trade-off is that the area lacks neighborhood soul and most independent businesses close on weekends.
A canyon of granite and glass skyscrapers, bustling with corporate workers during the week and quiet on the weekends.
Where to stay Grand, historic business hotels like the Fairmont Royal York.
Stay in Financial DistrictBook before you land
Top-rated tours and tickets in Toronto, with live prices from Viator.
Private Transfer Toronto Pearson Airport To Toronto Hotels/Airbnb
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St. Clair West and Casa Loma Food and Walking Experience
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Private Toronto Airport Transfer Service to City centre Toronto
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Niagara Falls in Spanish
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Exploring The Heart of Downtown Toronto
from $15
Customizable Walking Tour of Toronto's Hidden Gems
from $37
Niagara Falls Day Tour from Toronto: Cruise & Behind Falls
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Niagara Waterfall Adventure
from $131
Prices from Viator; we may earn a commission when you book — at no extra cost to you. Tours are sold and operated by Viator, the merchant of record. Ratings are collected by Viator and Tripadvisor.
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The Toronto guide
Where to eat, drink and look, how to get around, and what locals expect of you. Open any chapter.
Where to eat
Dining
Rodney's Oyster House
A basement institution known for its maritime humor, copper-topped bar, and expertly shucked oysters sourced directly from East Coast growers.
Signature: Freshly shucked oysters with house-made 'White Boy' hot sauce.
Osteria Giulia
A sophisticated, candle-lit space focusing on the seafood-heavy culinary traditions of Liguria, executed with extreme precision.
Signature: Wild squid cooked with salsa verde and pine nuts.
Pearl Diver
A relaxed, unpretentious tavern dedicated to sustainable seafood sourcing and excellent oyster happy hour deals.
Signature: The seafood chowder and pan-roasted cod.
Bar Isabel
Though a Spanish tavern, its wood-fired seafood preparations are legendary, served in a dim, atmospheric room.
Signature: Whole grilled octopus with potatoes.
Chiado
A formal, old-school fine-dining establishment serving classic Portuguese seafood flown in directly from the Azores.
Signature: Salt cod prepared in traditional styles or wild sea bass.
Barberian's Steak House
An iconic, wood-paneled steakhouse operating since 1959, featuring a legendary multi-million dollar wine cellar buried underground.
Signature: The classic Chateaubriand for two.
Jacobs & Co. Steakhouse
The ultimate modern steakhouse experience, featuring an in-house dry-aging room and a menu that details the provenance and feed of every cut.
Signature: The 40-day dry-aged ribeye.
Cote de Boeuf
A tiny, charming butcher shop by day that transforms into an intimate French bistro by night, cooking exceptional cuts over open heat.
Signature: The ribeye for two, carved to order.
Bernhardt's
A neighborhood favorite focusing on rotisserie chicken and seasonal grilled vegetables sourced from local Ontario farms.
Signature: The half-rotisserie chicken with house gravy.
Harbour 60
Set inside the historic Harbour Commission building, this opulent venue offers high-energy, club-like luxury dining with premium cuts.
Signature: The porterhouse steak.
Cherry St. Bar-B-Que
An industrial-chic smokehouse serving authentic, pit-smoked meats cooked over sweet oak wood.
Signature: The Texas-style beef brisket.
Bar Raval
A masterpiece of custom-carved mahogany woodwork where patrons stand at the bar to enjoy exceptional Spanish pintxos and cocktails.
Signature: Canned razor clams and smoked sardine toast.
Edulis
A tiny, husband-and-wife-run dining room dedicated to wild, foraged ingredients, mushrooms, and seafood, served via a seasonal tasting menu.
Signature: The multi-course seasonal tasting menu.
Richmond Station
Co-owned by a Top Chef Canada winner, this bustling spot focuses on farm-to-table Canadian ingredients with an in-house charcuterie program.
Signature: The St. Lawrence burger or the chef's tasting menu.
Antler Kitchen & Bar
A rustic dining room dedicated to celebrating wild game, forest-foraged ingredients, and local Canadian heritage foods.
Signature: The spice-rubbed venison chop.
Dreyfus
A cozy, residential townhouse converted into a French-bistro-style wine bar serving creative small plates and natural wines.
Signature: Pommes dauphine with seasonal dipping sauce.
Grey Gardens
A stylish, pastel-hued wine bar serving inventive, seafood-forward small plates in a relaxed neighborhood setting.
Signature: Smoked fish dip with house-made potato chips.
Alo
An exceptional French tasting-menu restaurant hidden atop a Victorian building, known for its flawless service and culinary precision.
Signature: The multi-course blind tasting menu.
Canoe
Perched on the 54th floor of the TD Bank Tower, it offers breathtaking views of the lake alongside highly refined, contemporary Canadian cuisine.
Signature: The Alberta lamb or tea-smoked venison.
Don Alfonso 1890
Located atop the Westin Harbour Castle, this restaurant serves Michelin-caliber Mediterranean dishes with panoramic views of the harbor.
Signature: Organic bison in a rustic pastry crust.
Yasu
The city's pioneer of the traditional Japanese omakase experience, serving pristine sushi at a minimalist white counter.
Signature: The 20-course sushi omakase.
Prime Seafood Palace
Designed like a modern wood-lined cathedral, this restaurant offers an incredibly luxurious take on the classic steakhouse and seafood joint.
Signature: The dry-aged prime rib.
Roti Mahal Indian Street Food
A local favorite for massive, heavy West Indian rotis packed with deeply spiced curries.
Signature: The boneless butter chicken roti.
Loga's Corner
A legendary, no-nonsense Tibetan spot serving handmade momos to a loyal neighborhood crowd.
Signature: Steamed beef momos with house-made hot sauce.
Banh Mi Nguyen Huong
An old-school, lightning-fast counter serving incredibly cheap, authentic Vietnamese banh mi on fresh baguettes.
Signature: The assorted cold cut banh mi.
Maha's Fine Egyptian Co.
A family-run cafe serving spectacular, colorful Egyptian brunch dishes that draw massive weekend lines.
Signature: The mind-blowing chicken shawarma.
Nom Nom Nom Crepes
Operating out of a shipping container, this spot serves arguably the most authentic, squeaky-curd poutine in the city center.
Signature: The Super Poutine with double curds.
Gia
A cozy, plant-forward Italian restaurant focusing on handmade pastas and organic ingredients.
Signature: The vegan cacio e pepe with house-made cashew butter.
Ten
A unique, 10-seat counter-only restaurant offering an elegant, multi-course vegetable-forward tasting menu.
Signature: The seasonal vegetable tasting menu.
Hawker
An intimate, artistic restaurant serving highly creative, nature-inspired plant-based small plates.
Signature: The 'God's Work' smoked mushroom dish.
Bloomer's
A beloved local bakery famous for its massive, fluffy, handcrafted vegan donuts made fresh daily.
Signature: The classic Boston cream vegan donut.
After dark
Nightlife
Coda
The city's premier underground electronic music venue, boasting a custom PK Sound system and a dedicated dance crowd.
Rebel
A massive, multi-room waterfront mega-club featuring Las Vegas-style production, LED screens, and international DJs.
The Drake Underground
A basement venue beneath the hotel that hosts a rotating mix of indie dance parties, hip-hop nights, and live acts.
Lula Lounge
The city's home for live salsa, Latin jazz, and global music, complete with dance lessons before the main show.
Nest
A solid multi-level venue hosting local and international house and techno DJs in a straightforward club setting.
Bar Chef
A global pioneer in molecular mixology where drinks are treated as multi-sensory art pieces utilizing dry ice, perfumes, and blowtorches.
Civil Liberties
A bar with no menu; instead, highly skilled bartenders interview you about your tastes to create a custom cocktail.
The Writers Room Bar
A historic, sophisticated rooftop bar offering some of the most iconic views of the downtown skyline.
Gift Shop
An intimate, highly exclusive speakeasy hidden behind a functioning barber shop on a trendy strip.
Broadview Hotel Rooftop
An east-end rooftop bar offering panoramic views of the Don Valley and the downtown skyline.
Mahjong Bar
Hidden behind a small, retro convenience store storefront, this bar opens up into a stylish, neon-lit drinking den.
The Horseshoe Tavern
Operating since 1947, this legendary, unpolished venue has hosted everyone from the Rolling Stones to local indie legends.
Massey Hall
A beautifully restored, historic 1894 concert hall renowned globally for its near-perfect acoustics.
The Rex Hotel Jazz & Blues Bar
A long-running, no-frills institution offering live jazz and blues every single night of the week.
Lee's Palace
Famous for its massive, colorful outdoor mural, this venue is a rite of passage for alternative and indie rock bands.
The Cameron House
An art-filled, quirky front room that has served as a creative incubator for the local folk and roots scene for decades.
Art & history
Culture
Royal Ontario Museum (ROM)
Canada's largest museum of world cultures and natural history, famous for its dramatic, crystalline Daniel Libeskind-designed entrance.
Art Gallery of Ontario (AGO)
Houses an incredible collection of Canadian, Indigenous, and European art, featuring a striking wood-and-glass facade designed by Frank Gehry.
Aga Khan Museum
A stunning, light-filled modern building designed by Fumihiko Maki, dedicated to the artistic, intellectual, and scientific heritage of Islamic civilizations.
Bata Shoe Museum
A unique, architecturally striking museum dedicated entirely to the history and cultural significance of footwear across the globe.
Museum of Contemporary Art (MOCA)
Housed in a historic former aluminum factory, this museum showcases cutting-edge, provocative contemporary art from local and international artists.
Hockey Hall of Fame
The ultimate tribute to Canada's national winter sport, housing the Stanley Cup and interactive goaltending games.
CN Tower
The city's defining architectural landmark, offering panoramic views of the city and Lake Ontario from its high-altitude observation decks.
Casa Loma
A massive, Edwardian-era Gothic Revival castle built by an eccentric financier, featuring secret passages and beautiful gardens.
City Hall & Nathan Phillips Square
A modernist masterpiece designed by Viljo Revell, featuring twin curved towers surrounding a public square that hosts a popular winter ice rink.
Gooderham Building (Flatiron)
A striking, red-brick flatiron building dating back to 1892, set against the backdrop of modern financial skyscrapers.
The Bentway
An innovative public space that transforms the vacant land directly beneath the Gardiner Expressway into a park and performance space.
Brookfield Place
Features the Allen Lambert Galleria, a soaring, cathedral-like canopy of steel and glass designed by Santiago Calatrava.
The Power Plant Contemporary Art Gallery
Canada's leading public gallery dedicated exclusively to contemporary art, housed in a historic powerhouse on the lake.
Stephen Bulger Gallery
A premier gallery focusing on historical and contemporary photography, with a strong emphasis on Canadian artists.
Cooper Cole
A highly influential gallery representing emerging and mid-career contemporary artists working in diverse media.
Daniel Faria Gallery
A high-concept contemporary art gallery set inside a cavernous, renovated industrial warehouse.
Bau-Xi Gallery
Located directly across from the AGO, this established gallery showcases fine Canadian landscape and abstract painting.
Timing
When to visit
Spring
April to May brings crisp air and the sudden, energetic opening of outdoor patios. High Park's cherry blossoms draw crowds, though temperatures can remain highly unpredictable.
Summer
June to August is humid, lively, and packed with street festivals. The city empties out on weekends as locals head north, leaving the downtown core to visitors.
Autumn
September to November features clear, cool days and spectacular fall foliage. September is dominated by the international film festival, which temporarily takes over the downtown core.
Winter
December to March is freezing and slushy. While outdoor activity slows to skating on public rinks, the city's indoor cultural life, dining scene, and underground PATH network operate at full capacity.
What it costs
Budgeting
Logistics
Getting around
From the airport
The UP Express train runs directly from Pearson International Airport (YYZ) to Union Station in the heart of downtown in exactly 25 minutes. It is clean, reliable, and costs a moderate fee (€€). Billy Bishop Airport (YTZ), located on the island, is connected to the mainland by a short pedestrian tunnel or a brief ferry ride.
Public transit
The Toronto Transit Commission (TTC) operates a straightforward grid of subways, historic streetcars, and buses. Streetcars run down major east-west arteries like Queen, King, and College streets, though they frequently get caught in standard vehicular traffic.
Passes & tickets
The PRESTO card is the universal fare payment system. You can purchase a physical card or load funds onto your smartphone. Single rides are flat-rate, and a day pass is available for unlimited travel (€).
On foot
The downtown core is highly walkable, laid out on a flat, easy-to-navigate grid. During extreme winter weather, the PATH—a 30-kilometer underground pedestrian walkway—connects major office towers, transit hubs, and shopping centers, though it can be highly disorienting to navigate.
Local etiquette
Safety & etiquette
- Always stand on the right side of escalators and walk on the left.
- Tipping is not optional; 15% is the baseline for acceptable service, while 18% to 20% is standard.
- When boarding streetcars, always yield to passengers exiting the vehicle before trying to step on.
Travel smart
Practical tips
- Download the PRESTO app to manage your transit fares, or simply tap your credit card directly on the readers.
- Avoid driving downtown at all costs; constant construction and a gridlocked layout make it highly frustrating.
- Book popular dining spots like Alo, Edulis, or Prime Seafood Palace weeks or even months in advance.
- Visit Kensington Market on the last Sunday of the month (May to October) when the streets are closed to cars.
- Take a private water taxi to the Toronto Islands on hot summer weekends to bypass the hours-long public ferry lines.
- Keep a close eye out for streetcar tracks if you are cycling; always cross them at a sharp angle to avoid crashing.
Before you go
Toronto FAQs
Is the CN Tower worth the ticket price?
Yes, but only on a completely clear day. Book the earliest morning slot to avoid massive tourist crowds and long elevator queues.
How do I get to the Toronto Islands?
Take the public ferry from the Jack Layton Ferry Terminal, or pay slightly more for a private water taxi to avoid the massive summer ferry lines.
Do I need to rent a car?
No. The downtown core is highly walkable, traffic is notoriously bad, and parking rates are extortionate. Stick to the subway and streetcars.
What is the PATH?
It is a massive, 30-kilometer underground pedestrian network connecting office towers. It is highly useful in winter but incredibly confusing to navigate.
Are taxes included in listed prices?
No. A 13% Harmonized Sales Tax (HST) is added to almost all purchases at the cash register, including restaurant bills and hotel stays.